I'll never forget witnessing the Volvo Ocean Race finish in Kiel, Germany, in 2002, when John Kostecki's illbruck nailed its amazing win. The spectators were packed six-deep along the city-front esplanade as the boats motored into the basin in the late afternoon. The waterfront was electric; it had the feel of a New York City parade route, only with portable beer gardens every 100 feet or so. The energy carried on into the night, with bars and clubs spilling over with race fans, sailors, and tourists. It was humbling to find myself among the crews, these rockstars of around-the-world racing, and to crawl around the innards of illbruck, with a personal tour by Ray Davies. And in Kiel's bars that evening, the sailors finally let down their guards. Whenever I cornered one in a pub with the offer of a pint, the honest stories came freely. It gave me a better appreciation of their experience, an appreciation that only comes by being caught up in the excitement as it's happening.